Greek Fried Salt Cod with Garlicky Potato Skordalia

By Sprig Originals ✓ · cooked up in Sprig

Crisp, lacy-battered salt cod over a cloud of garlic-and-olive-oil potato skordalia — the Friday-night taverna plate done properly at home. Includes a foolproof 36-hour soaking schedule for dried salt cod plus a same-day fresh cod shortcut, and a food-processor method for skordalia that stays silky instead of gluey.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb dried salt cod, thick center-cut pieces, skin on
• cold water, for soaking (about 6 quarts total, changed repeatedly)
• 1 cup whole milk (optional, for the final soak)

• 1 1/2 lb fresh skinless cod loin, cut into 3-inch pieces
• 3 tbsp kosher salt
• 4 cups cold water

• 1 1/2 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
• 4 cloves garlic, peeled
• 3/4 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 2 tbsp blanched slivered almonds (optional, for body)
• 1/2 cup good Greek extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, plus more to taste
• 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1/3 cup warm potato cooking water, plus more as needed

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup cornstarch
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp kosher salt (omit if using salt cod)
• 1 cup cold lager or sparkling water
• 1/2 cup flour, for dredging
• 6 cups sunflower or other neutral oil, for frying

• 1 lemon, cut into wedges
• 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1 handful cooked beet greens or dressed arugula (optional)

Instructions

1. SALT COD, DAY 1 (morning): Rinse the dried cod under cold running water for 2 minutes to wash off surface salt. Cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces with kitchen shears, put them in a large non-reactive bowl or container, and cover with 3 inches of cold water. Refrigerate.
2. SALT COD SOAKING SCHEDULE: Change the water every 6 to 8 hours (roughly 4–6 changes over 36 hours), always returning it to the refrigerator. Thick center cuts may need 48 hours; thin tail pieces are often ready at 24. At the 24-hour mark, tear off a pea-size piece and taste it raw: it should taste pleasantly seasoned, like well-salted fresh fish, not aggressively salty. If it is still harsh, keep soaking. For the last 2 hours you can soak in the milk plus enough water to cover, which softens the flavor. Drain, pat very dry, and pull out any pin bones; leave the skin on for structure.
3. FRESH COD SHORTCUT (same day): Stir 3 tablespoons kosher salt into 4 cups cold water until dissolved, add the cod, and refrigerate 45 minutes. Drain, rinse briefly, and pat completely dry. This firms the flesh and seasons it through, mimicking lightly cured cod. Skip the milk soak.
4. SKORDALIA: Put the potato chunks in a saucepan, cover with cold water by 1 inch, add a big pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Simmer 15–18 minutes until a knife slides through with no resistance. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain the potatoes and let them steam dry in the colander for 5 minutes.
5. While the potatoes cook, put the garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and the almonds (if using) in a food processor and pulse 15–20 times, scraping down twice, until you have a fine, damp paste. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil in a slow stream, about 45 seconds, followed by the vinegar and lemon juice; you'll have a loose, pale garlic emulsion.
6. Press the hot potatoes through a ricer or food mill into a wide bowl (or mash very thoroughly with a hand masher). Do not blend the potatoes in the food processor on their own or they will turn to glue. Pour the garlic emulsion over the hot potatoes and fold with a flexible spatula, adding warm potato water 1 tablespoon at a time — about 1/3 cup — until the skordalia is thick, glossy, and just spreadable. Taste and adjust with salt and a few extra drops of vinegar; it should be bracingly garlicky. Cover and keep warm.
7. BATTER: Whisk the 1 cup flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt (omit the salt if using salt cod) in a bowl. Pour in the cold beer or sparkling water and whisk just until smooth and the consistency of heavy cream — a few small lumps are fine. Rest 10 minutes while the oil heats.
8. Pour the frying oil into a heavy 5-quart Dutch oven to a depth of 1½ inches and heat over medium-high to 350°F (175°C) on a clip-on thermometer. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan nearby.
9. Spread the 1/2 cup dredging flour on a plate. Pat the fish dry one more time, dredge each piece in flour and tap off the excess, then dip into the batter and let the excess drip back for 3 seconds.
10. Fry in batches of 3 or 4 pieces, never crowding, for 4–6 minutes, turning once, until the crust is deep golden and audibly crisp and the fish flakes at the thickest point (145°F / 63°C). Keep the oil between 340°F and 360°F, letting it recover between batches. Transfer to the rack — not paper towels — and season lightly with salt only if you used fresh cod.
11. Spoon a generous swoosh of warm skordalia onto each plate, pile the fried cod alongside or on top, and scatter with parsley. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and, if you like, warm beet greens or a sharp arugula salad to cut the richness.

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Nutrition (per serving, estimated)

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